Pink vanilla clouds glide across the sky accentuating the autumn colours descending on Haugesund on Norway's west coast. And as head chef Kjartan Kjetland, pastry chef Gaylor Frèmy and chef Eirik Aase give tonight's cookery course, a scent of fried fish and lobster stock fills the loft overlooking the harbour.

Dressed for success, the aspiring hobby chefs in white aprons take their positions in Paul & K's kitchen on the sixth floor.

The group is divided into three groups of starter, main course and dessert.
Kjartan Kjetland summons the flock of curious participants who carefully taste every word he says as they take notes.

"If you boil the vegetables under a lid, they lose their bright colours," he says, while demonstrating down to the very last detail how to prepare perfected asparagus.

Kjartan also explains why he adds lemon to the butter sauce, and how green lobster roe turns red when it is brought to the boil. The group is awestruck by this wizardry.
Kjartan finally beats the roe with a whisk to keep it smooth.

After four hours sweating over the stove, French pastry chef Gaylor has also had time to introduce the participants to some of the secrets behind four appetizing desserts.

Freshly baked bread and fish soup
A cold draft of salty air sifts through the room from the open window, as sea gulls pass shrieking in search of their afternoon meal.

As they allow themselves a break to rest their feet, freshly baked bread and a large bowl of fish soup appears as sent from heaven. Busy chefs make hungry chefs, and as their self-made gastronomic experience is still a few hours away, Kjartan, Gaylor and Erik make sure no one go hungry.
Where in town can they get the finest fish? Did everybody write down the recipes? It is hard to talk about anything but food.

"How much olive oil did you use on those lentils," one of them asks. Kjartan explains how he balanced the flavours of olive oil and balsamic vinegar to the lentils, and discloses some of the mysteries behind gourmet cooking to the inquisitive participants.

After a while one of them shrugs off the satisfaction of being full and rested, as she starts preparing to set the table for tonight's meal. It will be classy and indisputably elegant.

As soon as the table is set, they change into their best to get ready for their own dinner party. The loft features even a bubble bath, shower and changing room at the disposal of the participants.

In search of the perfect flavour
It is seven-thirty and darkness has wrapped the little town. In the loft candlelights are burning on the table and the fireplace has come alive for the occasion.

Bending over the steamy pots, three of the participants chatter away and share a good laugh. The ladies responsible for the starter do a final test on the vegetables and have a sip of champagne. There is plenty left to do before they can sit down and eat.

"Now all of you should run this by your taste buds," is the order from Kjartan as he grabs a handful of spoons.

A pinch of pepper and a few drops of lemon are added as one stirs finely chopped salmon and oyster for the tartar, while another sprinkles salt into the bowl. It is a team dedicated to the search for the perfectly balanced flavour.

Delighted participants
Six hands pitch in to mould the tartar with spoons and place it elegantly on each plate, followed by foie gras on a bed of puy lentils, topped with orange confit, pan fried lobster in basil juice and poached vegetables. The ladies add pepper and salt.

"Hey! Easy on the salt," chef Erik exclaims on the sideline.

At the table the participants walk each other through what they have made, and when the time comes to taste the final product, they are pleased with their own achievements.

Everyone join in to serve the food, and are taught the correct way to balance numerous plates at the same time, as well as charming tricks of the trade, such as laying napkins discretely in the guests' lap, and then serving women first. And perhaps for some, for the first time they learn to appreciate the importance of selecting the right wine to bring a meal to new heights.

Enjoying the serenity
Before they know it, it is almost midnight and the guests leave the table. A five-course dinner with multiple desserts has taken its toll.

Content, but tired, they opt to sit quietly and enjoy the warmth with each their cognac beside the fireplace.

The day has been an adventure for all of them in the art of cooking, as well as an aesthetic and social experience that will sit with them for a long time.
All agree that the soothing atmosphere of the loft contributes to the perfect end to a perfect day.

The sea gulls have quietened down. Twelve white, although stained, aprons hang in the kitchen as a testimony to the magic that was created here today, and twelve satiated chefs glow in the heat of the fireplace.